‘Every Cook Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.